Okanagan Water restrictions

Originally published July 29, 2026. This article was written during the summer 2026 drought and water restrictions, but the water-saving strategies and advice for protecting plants remain relevant for future drought conditions.

It’s disheartening to see your favourite perennials turning brown with shrivelled leaves and drooping flowers, and it’s frustrating to see lawns turn brown instead of lush and green, but that’s today’s reality.

There are steps you can take to help save plants, but you must let the lawn go in times of severe water shortage. It’s more important to conserve enough water for indoor domestic use and other essential needs than to keep lawns green.

That’s not only my opinion. That’s the law.

Due to urgently declining water reservoir levels, the City of West Kelowna has now joined the cities of Vernon and Peachland and other Okanagan communities in imposing Stage Three outdoor watering restrictions. That means you may only irrigate one day a week and you may not water the lawn at any time or in any way; wash your car, deck or patio; or fill your pool, hot tub or water feature.

More than 90 million litres of water a day flow through the two treatment plants operated by the City of West Kelowna, rapidly emptying upland reservoirs that are at lower-than-normal levels.

Okanagan Lake, which is also a water reservoir, was at its lowest level in 80 years of records, but most of the City of Kelowna, which mainly uses that as its source of water, remained at Stage One restrictions, permitting outdoor watering three days a week.

Kelowna users who received their water from the McCulloch Lake reservoir were under Stage Two restrictions and could irrigate only two days a week. Lake Country and Penticton were also at Stage Two. Osoyoos moved to Stage Three late in the summer.

No communities permit outdoor watering during the heat of the day, with most restricting it to overnight and until 10 or 11 am.; and again in the evening from 6 or 7 pm.

The next step is Stage Four restrictions, when no outdoor watering will be permitted, to prioritize water for essential indoor needs and firefighting. With no end to the heat and drought in sight, if we don’t do more now to conserve water, we are likely to be forced to that extreme.

How to Save Plants During Drought

All is not lost, however. You can protect your investment in trees, shrubs, and other plants, including vegetables, by hand-watering them during the early morning and evening hours on any day of the week to supplement the limited irrigation that’s allowed.

This will have been helped if you transitioned your garden to xeriscape, planting native and drought-tolerant species that thrive with less or no supplemental irrigation.

Mulch Helps Gardens Hold Moisture

Applying a generous layer of mulch is one of the simplest and most effective ways to help your garden withstand drought conditions. A 7 – 10 cm layer of organic mulch using compost, woodchips, shredded bark, or straw acts as an insulating barrier that dramatically reduces evaporation from the soil surface, keeping moisture available to plant roots for longer between waterings. Mulch also moderates soil temperature, preventing the extreme heat spikes that stress roots and drive plants into moisture-conserving survival mode.

As organic mulch breaks down, it improves soil structure and water-holding capacity over time, creating a positive feedback loop where healthier soil retains water more efficiently.

When applying mulch, keep it a few centimetres away from plant stems and tree trunks to avoid rot and pest issues, and top it up annually as it decomposes.

Let Your Lawn Go Dormant During Drought

Don’t worry about the survival of your lawn under drought conditions. One of the most valuable yet underused drought strategies in the Okanagan is simply allowing lawns to go dormant.

Traditional turf grasses, like Kentucky bluegrass and fescue, common in most residential lawns, are cool-season species, meaning they’re genetically programmed to grow vigorously in spring and fall and to shut down growth during summer heat.

During dormancy, the grass blades turn brown and stop growing, but the crown and root system remain alive underground, conserving energy and water until cooler, wetter conditions return.

Homeowners can support this natural process by simply reducing or withholding irrigation once dormancy begins, rather than fighting it with constant watering.

Lawns typically green up again within a couple of weeks of renewed rainfall or irrigation once temperatures moderate, making dormancy a low-effort, water-wise choice.

DROUGHT LEVEL 4 — JULY 2026
In July 2026, the province of B.C. designated the Okanagan Valley as Drought Level 4 due to extreme dry conditions and a shortage of water supplies.

It’s a warning to us all to take extreme measures to conserve water.

For more drought information and current updates, check the OBWB website.

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Create garden drama with eye-catching ornamental grasses

In an era of increasing water consciousness and changing climate, gardeners are discovering the remarkable beauty and resilience of xeric ornamental grasses.

These drought-adapted species offer a low-maintenance solution to challenging growing conditions while providing year-round visual interest.

Three standout varieties, Blue Grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis), Blue Oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens), and “Blaze” Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium ‘Blaze’) demonstrate how water-wise landscaping can be both sustainable and stunning.

Blue Grama Grass

Blue Grama represents the epitome of prairie toughness. This native North American species thrives in conditions that would challenge most ornamental plants, making it an invaluable addition to your drought-tolerant garden. The grass forms dense, low-growing clumps that rarely exceed 18 inches in height, creating a fine-textured ground cover perfect for naturalistic plantings.

The true charm of Blue Grama lies in its distinctive seed heads, which curve gracefully like eyelashes dancing in the breeze. These inflorescences appear in mid to late summer, adding movement and whimsy to the landscape.

The foliage transitions beautifully through the seasons, beginning spring with fresh blue-green colour, maintaining its appeal through summer’s heat, and finishing autumn with warm bronze tones that persist well into winter—while the seed heads transition to burgundy shades with the cooling weather.

From a practical standpoint, Blue Grama grass excels where other plants struggle. It tolerates extreme drought once established, requiring virtually no supplemental irrigation in most climates.

This grass also handles temperature fluctuations remarkably well, surviving both scorching summers and harsh winters. Its fibrous root system helps prevent soil erosion, making it an excellent choice for planting on slopes. Additionally, Blue Grama grass requires minimal maintenance, no fertilization, and is naturally resistant to most pests and diseases.

Blue Grama grass in the fall

Blue Oat Grass

Helictotrichon sempervirens brings a touch of Mediterranean sophistication to drought-tolerant gardens. This evergreen perennial forms striking architectural clumps of steel-blue foliage that maintain their colour throughout the year, providing consistent structure in the landscape. The narrow, arching leaves create perfect spherical mounds that can reach 2-3 feet in both height and width, offering a substantial presence without overwhelming smaller garden spaces.

The ornamental value of Blue Oat grass extends beyond its foliage. In early summer, tall, graceful flower stems emerge, carrying delicate oat-like seed heads that sway elegantly above the blue foliage.

These inflorescences begin with a subtle golden hue and gradually fade to warm tan, adding vertical interest and seasonal transition to the planting scheme. Blue Oat grass thrives in full sun and well-draining soils, demonstrating remarkable drought tolerance once established. Its Mediterranean origins make it particularly well-suited to regions with hot, dry summers and mild winters.

This grass requires excellent drainage and can suffer in heavy, clay soils. However, when properly sited, it proves nearly maintenance-free, requiring only annual cleanup of old foliage in late winter.

Blue Oat Grass in the Fall
Matt Lavin | Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Little Bluestem ‘Blaze’

Schizachyrium scoparium ‘Blaze’ represents the pinnacle of ornamental grass breeding, combining the toughness of native Little Bluestem with enhanced ornamental characteristics. This cultivar was specifically selected for its exceptional fall colour, living up to its name with blazing orange-red foliage that provides a spectacular autumn display.

During the growing season, ‘Blaze’ maintains attractive blue-green foliage in upright clumps reaching two to three feet tall. The grass develops a naturally vase-shaped habit that fits into both formal and informal garden designs. In late summer, delicate seed heads appear, creating a soft, hazy effect that adds textural interest without overwhelming the planting.

The true glory of ‘Blaze’ is apparent in autumn when the foliage transforms into brilliant shades of orange, red, and burgundy. This dramatic colour change occurs reliably each year, providing dependable seasonal interest that rivals any deciduous shrub or perennial. The colourful foliage persists well into winter, gradually fading to attractive golden-tan tones that provide structure and interest during the dormant season.

Like its native parent, ‘Blaze’ demonstrates exceptional drought tolerance and adaptability. It thrives in full sun and well-draining soils, handling both clay and sandy conditions with equal success. This grass requires virtually no maintenance once established and proves resistant to pests and diseases.

Little bluestem ‘Blaze’ in fall
Photo by Woodside Plants

These three grasses complement each other beautifully in drought-tolerant plantings. Blue Grama works well as a ground cover or in naturalistic drifts, while Blue Oat grass provides architectural structure and year-round colour. “Blaze” Little Bluestem adds seasonal drama and vertical interest.

Together, they create layered, textural plantings that celebrate the beauty of water-wise gardening while providing habitat for wildlife and reducing landscape maintenance requirements.

In our increasingly water-stressed valley, these xeric grasses prove that sustainable gardening doesn’t require sacrificing beauty but simply requires choosing plants perfectly adapted to our environment.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Use Fire-smart Plant Choices to Resist Wildfire

When designing landscapes in wildfire-prone areas, homeowners face the challenge of finding a balance between creating beautiful outdoor spaces while maintaining crucial fire protection for their homes.

Fortunately, several native plants offer both aesthetic appeal and FireSmart™ qualities.

Three standout choices, Mock orange (Philadelphus lewisii), Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra), and Saskatoon Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) demonstrate that fire-wise landscaping doesn’t mean sacrificing beauty.

Visit the FireSmart website to learn about the best fire-resistant choices for your landscape.

MOCK ORANGE

Philadelphus lewisii, our native Mock Orange, is a deciduous shrub that typically reaches six to 10 feet tall, producing masses of white, fragrant flowers in late spring that evoke the scent of orange blossoms.

It earns its place in fire-smart gardens through several key characteristics–

• From a fire-safety perspective, Mock Orange excels because of its high moisture content and low resin levels. The plant’s broad, green leaves retain substantial water content throughout the growing season, making it less likely to ignite quickly.
• Unlike many ornamental shrubs, Mock Orange doesn’t accumulate significant dead material within its structure, reducing the fuel load when properly maintained. Its deciduous nature means it naturally drops leaves in fall rather than accumulating layers of dry, flammable debris as pyramid cedars tend to.
• Mock Orange responds well to pruning, allowing homeowners to maintain open spacing between branches that helps to prevent fire from easily moving through the plant’s structure.

Position Mock Orange 1.5 to 30 metres away from a structure where it can still provide privacy and beauty without endangering your home.

If you garden in a small space, consider the diminutive cultivar ‘Snowbelle’ which reaches only three to four feet tall and wide.

SMOOTH SUMAC

Rhus glabra, or Smooth Sumac brings both striking ornamental value and practical fire resistance to Okanagan landscapes.

This native shrub features compound leaves that turn brilliant shades of orange and red in autumn, followed by persistent crimson fruit clusters that feed overwintering birds.

Growing eight to 15 feet tall, Smooth Sumac spreads through rhizomes to form colonies, making it excellent for erosion control on slopes.

The fire-smart qualities of smooth sumac lie in its structure and composition–

• The plant maintains relatively high moisture levels in its foliage and stems during active growth.
• Its leaves are broad and flat, with smooth surfaces that don’t trap heat or encourage rapid flame spread.
• While Smooth Sumac does produce some woody material, it lacks the volatile oils found in many drought-tolerant plants.
• This species naturally self-prunes lower branches as it matures, creating vertical separation from ground fuels, a critical feature in fire-safe landscaping.

Regular maintenance enhances Smooth Sumac’s defensive qualities. Remove dead canes annually and thin colonies to prevent excessive density.

Space individual clumps of plants at least 10 feet apart to create natural firebreaks within your landscape.

SASKATOON

Amelanchier alnifolia, commonly known as Saskatoon, is also suitable for planting along the perimeter of the intermediate zone, which is 1.5 to 10 metres away from a structure. It possesses several characteristics that make it a valuable addition to FireSmart™ landscaping.

This native Okanagan shrub is considered a fire-resistant plant due to its high moisture content in leaves and stems, which helps slow the spread of flames.

It maintains relatively lush foliage throughout the growing season, contributing to its lower flammability rating compared to many conifers or plants with resinous leaves.

Additionally, the Saskatoon can be pruned and maintained at a manageable height, allowing homeowners to keep it as a compact shrub rather than allowing it to develop into a taller bush, which could provide ladder fuel that may carry fire from ground level into the tree canopy.

When planted as part of a well-maintained FireSmart™ landscape with adequate spacing, Amelanchier alnifolia can serve both aesthetic and protective functions, offering beautiful white spring flowers followed by edible berries while contributing to a defensible space around structures in our wildfire-prone valley.

All three of these plants share critical FireSmart™ characteristics– high moisture content, low volatile oil production, deciduous habits that prevent excessive dead material accumulation, and growth habits that make them amenable to maintenance pruning.

Combine them throughout your defensible space, maintaining adequate spacing that prevents fire from jumping between bushes.

Remember that even fire-resistant plants require proper maintenance, such as regular removal of any dead material.

With these three beautiful fire-smart plant choices, you can create a landscape that’s both defensible from fire and drought-tolerant.

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Leave only healthy leaves

Many environmentally-conscious homeowners have embraced the practice of leaving fallen leaves in place each fall, while others still shudder at the perceived mess.

The benefits are well-documented as leaves provide valuable habitat for beneficial insects, enrich soil as they decompose, and reduce the volume of waste going to landfills.

However, there are dangers in leaving all leaves to overwinter in place. Instead, there are instances when this eco-friendly practice should be abandoned in favour of thorough leaf removal. Understanding when to rake isn’t just about aesthetics but about protecting the health of your landscape.

When Disease Changes the “Leave the Leaves” Rule

On the other hand, the most compelling reason to remove fallen leaves is the presence of foliar diseases. Many common tree and plant diseases overwinter in fallen foliage, waiting to reinfect plants when spring arrives.

Apple scab,(Venturia inaequalis), one of the most troublesome diseases affecting apple and crabapple trees, occurs in the Okanagan in years with higher than normal rainfall.

Spores, known as ascospores, survive winter in infected leaves on the ground. Come spring, these spores are released during wet weather and carried by wind to newly-emerging leaves, perpetuating the cycle.

If your apple or crabapple trees showed signs of dark, scabby lesions on leaves and fruit during the growing season, removing and destroying those fallen leaves is essential for disease management.

Black spot,(Diplocarpon rosae) the bane of rose gardeners everywhere, follows a similar pattern.

This fungal disease causes distinctive black spots surrounded by yellowing tissue on rose leaves. The pathogen overwinters in fallen leaves and infected canes, ready to splash onto new foliage with spring rains.

Gardeners who’ve battled black spot fungus should never leave infected rose leaves on the ground; instead, these leaves should be bagged and discarded.

I have a client with a large rose garden who requests that I manually remove all leaves from her rose plants in order to prevent disease.

Anthracnose diseases affect numerous trees and shrubs, including London plane trees, dogwoods, maples, and oaks

Anthracnose damage can be easily seen each year in the boulevard plantings of London plane trees around Kelowna. These fungal pathogens cause irregular dead patches on leaves and can lead to severe defoliation and twig dieback. Infected leaves and twigs harbour the fungus through winter, and leaving them in place ensures reinfection the following season.

If your trees displayed the characteristic brown, dead patches along leaf veins, removal of fallen foliage should be a priority.

Practical Reasons Not to Leave the Leaves Everywhere

Beyond disease concerns, there are practical situations when leaf removal is simply necessary.

• Leaves left on hardscape areas can present a slipping or tripping hazard, and they can leave stains on concrete.
• Thick layers of leaves left on lawns will smother grass, creating dead patches that require reseeding come spring. While a light covering can be mulched with a mower and left to decompose, heavy accumulations must be removed or relocated to garden beds where they won’t suffocate desirable plants.
• Leaves that collect in gutters, storm drains, and against foundation walls should always be removed. Clogged gutters can lead to water damage, ice dams, and costly repairs.
• Leaves packed against foundations stay wet and can contribute to moisture problems and provide hiding places for pests seeking winter shelter.

A Balanced Approach

When removal is necessary, proper disposal matters.

Infected leaves should never be composted in home systems, as typical home compost piles don’t reach temperatures high enough to kill all pathogens.

Instead, bag them for municipal collection, bury them deeply away from susceptible plants, or burn them where local regulations permit.

The key to making informed decisions about fall leaf management is observation.

Take note of any disease problems during the growing season.

Photograph symptoms if you’re unsure about identification, and consult with your local Master Gardener chapter or certified arborists when needed.

For trees and gardens that remain healthy throughout the year, leaving leaves in place offers many environmental benefits.

However, when disease is present, removal becomes an important cultural control practice.

Fall leaf management doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing approach.

You can remove diseased leaves from problem areas while leaving healthy foliage in place elsewhere in your landscape.

This balanced approach protects plant health while still supporting beneficial wildlife and soil organisms.

By understanding when leaves should go and when they can stay, you’ll make better decisions for both your garden’s health and the environment.

The Okanagan Xeriscape Association is grateful for the ongoing financial support of the Okanagan Basin Water Board and is proud to be collaborating on the Make Water Work campaign. Check out the Make Water Work plant list at www.makewaterwork.ca

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.