GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Create garden drama with eye-catching ornamental grasses

In an era of increasing water consciousness and changing climate, gardeners are discovering the remarkable beauty and resilience of xeric ornamental grasses.

These drought-adapted species offer a low-maintenance solution to challenging growing conditions while providing year-round visual interest.

Three standout varieties, Blue Grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis), Blue Oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens), and “Blaze” Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium ‘Blaze’) demonstrate how water-wise landscaping can be both sustainable and stunning.

Blue Grama Grass

Blue Grama represents the epitome of prairie toughness. This native North American species thrives in conditions that would challenge most ornamental plants, making it an invaluable addition to your drought-tolerant garden. The grass forms dense, low-growing clumps that rarely exceed 18 inches in height, creating a fine-textured ground cover perfect for naturalistic plantings.

The true charm of Blue Grama lies in its distinctive seed heads, which curve gracefully like eyelashes dancing in the breeze. These inflorescences appear in mid to late summer, adding movement and whimsy to the landscape.

The foliage transitions beautifully through the seasons, beginning spring with fresh blue-green colour, maintaining its appeal through summer’s heat, and finishing autumn with warm bronze tones that persist well into winter—while the seed heads transition to burgundy shades with the cooling weather.

From a practical standpoint, Blue Grama grass excels where other plants struggle. It tolerates extreme drought once established, requiring virtually no supplemental irrigation in most climates.

This grass also handles temperature fluctuations remarkably well, surviving both scorching summers and harsh winters. Its fibrous root system helps prevent soil erosion, making it an excellent choice for planting on slopes. Additionally, Blue Grama grass requires minimal maintenance, no fertilization, and is naturally resistant to most pests and diseases.

Blue Grama grass in the fall

Blue Oat Grass

Helictotrichon sempervirens brings a touch of Mediterranean sophistication to drought-tolerant gardens. This evergreen perennial forms striking architectural clumps of steel-blue foliage that maintain their colour throughout the year, providing consistent structure in the landscape. The narrow, arching leaves create perfect spherical mounds that can reach 2-3 feet in both height and width, offering a substantial presence without overwhelming smaller garden spaces.

The ornamental value of Blue Oat grass extends beyond its foliage. In early summer, tall, graceful flower stems emerge, carrying delicate oat-like seed heads that sway elegantly above the blue foliage.

These inflorescences begin with a subtle golden hue and gradually fade to warm tan, adding vertical interest and seasonal transition to the planting scheme. Blue Oat grass thrives in full sun and well-draining soils, demonstrating remarkable drought tolerance once established. Its Mediterranean origins make it particularly well-suited to regions with hot, dry summers and mild winters.

This grass requires excellent drainage and can suffer in heavy, clay soils. However, when properly sited, it proves nearly maintenance-free, requiring only annual cleanup of old foliage in late winter.

Blue Oat Grass in the Fall
Matt Lavin | Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Little Bluestem ‘Blaze’

Schizachyrium scoparium ‘Blaze’ represents the pinnacle of ornamental grass breeding, combining the toughness of native Little Bluestem with enhanced ornamental characteristics. This cultivar was specifically selected for its exceptional fall colour, living up to its name with blazing orange-red foliage that provides a spectacular autumn display.

During the growing season, ‘Blaze’ maintains attractive blue-green foliage in upright clumps reaching two to three feet tall. The grass develops a naturally vase-shaped habit that fits into both formal and informal garden designs. In late summer, delicate seed heads appear, creating a soft, hazy effect that adds textural interest without overwhelming the planting.

The true glory of ‘Blaze’ is apparent in autumn when the foliage transforms into brilliant shades of orange, red, and burgundy. This dramatic colour change occurs reliably each year, providing dependable seasonal interest that rivals any deciduous shrub or perennial. The colourful foliage persists well into winter, gradually fading to attractive golden-tan tones that provide structure and interest during the dormant season.

Like its native parent, ‘Blaze’ demonstrates exceptional drought tolerance and adaptability. It thrives in full sun and well-draining soils, handling both clay and sandy conditions with equal success. This grass requires virtually no maintenance once established and proves resistant to pests and diseases.

Little bluestem ‘Blaze’ in fall
Photo by Woodside Plants

These three grasses complement each other beautifully in drought-tolerant plantings. Blue Grama works well as a ground cover or in naturalistic drifts, while Blue Oat grass provides architectural structure and year-round colour. “Blaze” Little Bluestem adds seasonal drama and vertical interest.

Together, they create layered, textural plantings that celebrate the beauty of water-wise gardening while providing habitat for wildlife and reducing landscape maintenance requirements.

In our increasingly water-stressed valley, these xeric grasses prove that sustainable gardening doesn’t require sacrificing beauty but simply requires choosing plants perfectly adapted to our environment.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Use Fire-smart Plant Choices to Resist Wildfire

When designing landscapes in wildfire-prone areas, homeowners face the challenge of finding a balance between creating beautiful outdoor spaces while maintaining crucial fire protection for their homes.

Fortunately, several native plants offer both aesthetic appeal and FireSmart™ qualities.

Three standout choices, Mock orange (Philadelphus lewisii), Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra), and Saskatoon Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) demonstrate that fire-wise landscaping doesn’t mean sacrificing beauty.

Visit the FireSmart website to learn about the best fire-resistant choices for your landscape.

MOCK ORANGE

Philadelphus lewisii, our native Mock Orange, is a deciduous shrub that typically reaches six to 10 feet tall, producing masses of white, fragrant flowers in late spring that evoke the scent of orange blossoms.

It earns its place in fire-smart gardens through several key characteristics–

• From a fire-safety perspective, Mock Orange excels because of its high moisture content and low resin levels. The plant’s broad, green leaves retain substantial water content throughout the growing season, making it less likely to ignite quickly.
• Unlike many ornamental shrubs, Mock Orange doesn’t accumulate significant dead material within its structure, reducing the fuel load when properly maintained. Its deciduous nature means it naturally drops leaves in fall rather than accumulating layers of dry, flammable debris as pyramid cedars tend to.
• Mock Orange responds well to pruning, allowing homeowners to maintain open spacing between branches that helps to prevent fire from easily moving through the plant’s structure.

Position Mock Orange 1.5 to 30 metres away from a structure where it can still provide privacy and beauty without endangering your home.

If you garden in a small space, consider the diminutive cultivar ‘Snowbelle’ which reaches only three to four feet tall and wide.

SMOOTH SUMAC

Rhus glabra, or Smooth Sumac brings both striking ornamental value and practical fire resistance to Okanagan landscapes.

This native shrub features compound leaves that turn brilliant shades of orange and red in autumn, followed by persistent crimson fruit clusters that feed overwintering birds.

Growing eight to 15 feet tall, Smooth Sumac spreads through rhizomes to form colonies, making it excellent for erosion control on slopes.

The fire-smart qualities of smooth sumac lie in its structure and composition–

• The plant maintains relatively high moisture levels in its foliage and stems during active growth.
• Its leaves are broad and flat, with smooth surfaces that don’t trap heat or encourage rapid flame spread.
• While Smooth Sumac does produce some woody material, it lacks the volatile oils found in many drought-tolerant plants.
• This species naturally self-prunes lower branches as it matures, creating vertical separation from ground fuels, a critical feature in fire-safe landscaping.

Regular maintenance enhances Smooth Sumac’s defensive qualities. Remove dead canes annually and thin colonies to prevent excessive density.

Space individual clumps of plants at least 10 feet apart to create natural firebreaks within your landscape.

SASKATOON

Amelanchier alnifolia, commonly known as Saskatoon, is also suitable for planting along the perimeter of the intermediate zone, which is 1.5 to 10 metres away from a structure. It possesses several characteristics that make it a valuable addition to FireSmart™ landscaping.

This native Okanagan shrub is considered a fire-resistant plant due to its high moisture content in leaves and stems, which helps slow the spread of flames.

It maintains relatively lush foliage throughout the growing season, contributing to its lower flammability rating compared to many conifers or plants with resinous leaves.

Additionally, the Saskatoon can be pruned and maintained at a manageable height, allowing homeowners to keep it as a compact shrub rather than allowing it to develop into a taller bush, which could provide ladder fuel that may carry fire from ground level into the tree canopy.

When planted as part of a well-maintained FireSmart™ landscape with adequate spacing, Amelanchier alnifolia can serve both aesthetic and protective functions, offering beautiful white spring flowers followed by edible berries while contributing to a defensible space around structures in our wildfire-prone valley.

All three of these plants share critical FireSmart™ characteristics– high moisture content, low volatile oil production, deciduous habits that prevent excessive dead material accumulation, and growth habits that make them amenable to maintenance pruning.

Combine them throughout your defensible space, maintaining adequate spacing that prevents fire from jumping between bushes.

Remember that even fire-resistant plants require proper maintenance, such as regular removal of any dead material.

With these three beautiful fire-smart plant choices, you can create a landscape that’s both defensible from fire and drought-tolerant.

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Leave only healthy leaves

Many environmentally-conscious homeowners have embraced the practice of leaving fallen leaves in place each fall, while others still shudder at the perceived mess.

The benefits are well-documented as leaves provide valuable habitat for beneficial insects, enrich soil as they decompose, and reduce the volume of waste going to landfills.

However, there are dangers in leaving all leaves to overwinter in place. Instead, there are instances when this eco-friendly practice should be abandoned in favour of thorough leaf removal. Understanding when to rake isn’t just about aesthetics but about protecting the health of your landscape.

When Disease Changes the “Leave the Leaves” Rule

On the other hand, the most compelling reason to remove fallen leaves is the presence of foliar diseases. Many common tree and plant diseases overwinter in fallen foliage, waiting to reinfect plants when spring arrives.

Apple scab,(Venturia inaequalis), one of the most troublesome diseases affecting apple and crabapple trees, occurs in the Okanagan in years with higher than normal rainfall.

Spores, known as ascospores, survive winter in infected leaves on the ground. Come spring, these spores are released during wet weather and carried by wind to newly-emerging leaves, perpetuating the cycle.

If your apple or crabapple trees showed signs of dark, scabby lesions on leaves and fruit during the growing season, removing and destroying those fallen leaves is essential for disease management.

Black spot,(Diplocarpon rosae) the bane of rose gardeners everywhere, follows a similar pattern.

This fungal disease causes distinctive black spots surrounded by yellowing tissue on rose leaves. The pathogen overwinters in fallen leaves and infected canes, ready to splash onto new foliage with spring rains.

Gardeners who’ve battled black spot fungus should never leave infected rose leaves on the ground; instead, these leaves should be bagged and discarded.

I have a client with a large rose garden who requests that I manually remove all leaves from her rose plants in order to prevent disease.

Anthracnose diseases affect numerous trees and shrubs, including London plane trees, dogwoods, maples, and oaks

Anthracnose damage can be easily seen each year in the boulevard plantings of London plane trees around Kelowna. These fungal pathogens cause irregular dead patches on leaves and can lead to severe defoliation and twig dieback. Infected leaves and twigs harbour the fungus through winter, and leaving them in place ensures reinfection the following season.

If your trees displayed the characteristic brown, dead patches along leaf veins, removal of fallen foliage should be a priority.

Practical Reasons Not to Leave the Leaves Everywhere

Beyond disease concerns, there are practical situations when leaf removal is simply necessary.

• Leaves left on hardscape areas can present a slipping or tripping hazard, and they can leave stains on concrete.
• Thick layers of leaves left on lawns will smother grass, creating dead patches that require reseeding come spring. While a light covering can be mulched with a mower and left to decompose, heavy accumulations must be removed or relocated to garden beds where they won’t suffocate desirable plants.
• Leaves that collect in gutters, storm drains, and against foundation walls should always be removed. Clogged gutters can lead to water damage, ice dams, and costly repairs.
• Leaves packed against foundations stay wet and can contribute to moisture problems and provide hiding places for pests seeking winter shelter.

A Balanced Approach

When removal is necessary, proper disposal matters.

Infected leaves should never be composted in home systems, as typical home compost piles don’t reach temperatures high enough to kill all pathogens.

Instead, bag them for municipal collection, bury them deeply away from susceptible plants, or burn them where local regulations permit.

The key to making informed decisions about fall leaf management is observation.

Take note of any disease problems during the growing season.

Photograph symptoms if you’re unsure about identification, and consult with your local Master Gardener chapter or certified arborists when needed.

For trees and gardens that remain healthy throughout the year, leaving leaves in place offers many environmental benefits.

However, when disease is present, removal becomes an important cultural control practice.

Fall leaf management doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing approach.

You can remove diseased leaves from problem areas while leaving healthy foliage in place elsewhere in your landscape.

This balanced approach protects plant health while still supporting beneficial wildlife and soil organisms.

By understanding when leaves should go and when they can stay, you’ll make better decisions for both your garden’s health and the environment.

The Okanagan Xeriscape Association is grateful for the ongoing financial support of the Okanagan Basin Water Board and is proud to be collaborating on the Make Water Work campaign. Check out the Make Water Work plant list at www.makewaterwork.ca

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Kill that Lawn

Traditional turf grass lawns, while aesthetically pleasing to some, come with significant environmental and maintenance costs.

Whether because of concerns about excessive water consumption, chemical fertilizers or constant mowing, many homeowners are choosing to kill lawn areas and replace their grass with more sustainable alternatives.

Instead, you could plan a native plant garden, vegetable beds, or simply reduce maintenance in that patch, but removing turf grass is the first crucial step to reducing water consumption and maintenance.

There are many ways to get rid of a patch of turf. Each method has its place depending on your timeline, budget, and environmental preferences. With proper planning and execution, you can transform your space into something that better serves both your needs and the local ecosystem.

Sheet Mulching

Also known as lasagna gardening, sheet mulching stands out as one of the most environmentally-friendly methods to kill lawn. This technique involves layering organic materials directly over existing grass to smother it while simultaneously building healthy soil.

To implement sheet mulching:

1. Start by mowing your grass as short as possible.
2. Next, lay down a barrier layer of cardboard or newspaper, ensuring pieces overlap by at least six inches, to prevent the grass underneath from finding gaps. Remove any tape or staples from the cardboard, as these won’t decompose.
3. Water the barrier layer thoroughly.
4. Add alternating layers of “green” nitrogen-rich materials (like grass clippings or kitchen scraps) and “brown” carbon-rich materials (such as dried leaves, straw, or wood chips) The final layer should be four to six inches of finished compost or mulch.

This process typically takes six to 12 months to completely kill the grass underneath, while creating rich, fertile soil perfect for new plantings. Sheet mulching requires patience but offers the advantage of improving soil health while eliminating the need for turf disposal.

The series of photos below are by Rachel Balmforth for her lawn replacement project

Laying cardboard complete

Lawn replacement complete

Solarization

Solarization uses solar energy to heat soil to temperatures that will kill lawn and many weeds.

This method works best where the climate is hot and sunny during the summer months.

1. After cutting the grass short, water the area thoroughly and cover it with clear plastic sheeting.
2. Secure the edges with irrigation pins, rocks, or bury them in soil to create an airtight seal.
3. Leave the plastic in place for six to eight weeks during the hottest part of summer

The trapped heat will reach temperatures of 140°F or higher, effectively cooking the grass and many weed seeds. This method is chemical-free and relatively inexpensive, though it requires specific weather conditions and timing to be effective.

Manual and Mechanical Removal

For smaller areas or when immediate results are needed, manual removal remains a viable option.

This method involves using tools like sod cutters, spades, or specialized grass removal tools to physically lift and remove grass, along with its root system.

1. Start by watering the area lightly to soften the soil, making grass easier to remove.
2. Use a sharp spade or sod cutter to slice through the grass in manageable sections, typically 12-18 inches square. Work the tool under the grass to lift both the vegetation and the root system.

While labour-intensive, this method provides immediate results and allows for precise control over the removal process.

For large areas, mechanical removal might be the most practical approach.

1. Renting a sod cutter can make quick work of extensive grass areas. These machines slice through grass roots at a consistent depth, allowing you to roll up strips of sod like carpet.
2. Alternatively, rototillers can break up grass, though this method may require multiple passes and careful attention to removing all the cut grass to prevent it from re-establishing.

Herbicide Removal

While not environmentally preferred, herbicides can effectively kill lawn when other methods aren’t practical.

Glyphosate-based products are commonly used, though they come with environmental and health concerns.

If choosing this route, always follow label instructions carefully, avoid application before rain, and consider the impact on beneficial insects and soil microorganisms. I acknowledge that this is an option for turf removal but in no way condone it.

Regardless of your chosen removal method, having a plan for the space afterward is crucial as bare soil is vulnerable to erosion and weed invasion.

Consider your replacement options, whether native plants, vegetable gardens, or alternative ground covers, before beginning removal. Check our blog for more articles on lawn alternatives and native species.

Successfully removing turf grass opens up possibilities for more sustainable and diverse landscapes.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Rethinking Lawns in the Okanagan

I have had the pleasure of visiting a great many beautiful gardens recently, and l have been overjoyed to notice the trend of fewer turfgrass lawns and growing interest in Okanagan lawn alternatives.

The Problem with Traditional Lawns
Traditional turfgrass lawns have long been a symbol of suburban living throughout the Okanagan Valley, but they come with a hefty environmental price tag in this semi-arid region.

A typical lawn requires approximately 2.5 to 5 centimetres of water per week during the growing season just to maintain that pristine green carpet in a region that receives only 30-38 centimetres of annual precipitation.

Beyond the immediate water consumption, turfgrass lawns demand significant resources throughout the Okanagan’s growing season.

• They require frequent watering, fertilization, pesticide applications, and regular mowing, all of which contribute to environmental stress and increased household expenses.
• In the Okanagan’s dry climate, maintaining traditional lawns can account for 60 percent of residential water usage during peak summer months, placing enormous strain on local water systems during the region’s driest period.
• The environmental impact extends beyond water consumption. Turfgrass often requires synthetic fertilizers and pesticides that can leach into groundwater systems and contribute to nutrient pollution in nearby waterways
• Additionally, frequent mowing is a source of carbon emissions and contributes to noise pollution in residential neighbourhoods.

The Case for Change

Embracing Okanagan lawn alternatives can lead to more resilient and visually appealing landscapes. Reducing turfgrass areas can dramatically decrease your water usage while creating more sustainable and diverse landscapes perfectly suited to the Okanagan’s climate.

Native plant alternatives such as sagebrush, penstemon, and native bunch grasses require significantly less water than traditional turfgrass, once established, as they are naturally adapted to the region’s hot, dry summers and cold winters.

This reduction can save thousands of litres of water annually for the average Okanagan household.

Ground covers like kinnikinnick, native sedums, or Achillea millefolium (Yarrow) can provide visual appeal while requiring minimal irrigation after establishment.

These alternatives also offer additional benefits such as supporting local pollinators, reducing soil erosion on the region’s slopes, and requiring less maintenance overall.

Where to Begin

To reduce your environmental footprint, identify high-maintenance areas of your lawn that receive the most water or are difficult to maintain. Remove grass in these zones first, replacing them with drought-tolerant alternatives.

Common target areas include:

• steep slopes
• areas under trees
• narrow strips along pathways

Rather than removing all turf at once, consider a phased approach. Start by reducing lawn size by 20 per cent in the first year, allowing you to tabulate water savings and adjust your landscape design before continuing.

You can replace removed turf with native wildflower meadows, rock gardens, vegetable plots, or water-permeable hardscaping. Each option offers different water-saving benefits and maintenance requirements.

Prioritize the Toughest Zones

When planning turf reduction in your garden, focus on areas that provide the greatest water-saving potential.

South-facing slopes, areas far from water sources, and sections that receive full sun typically consume the most irrigation water and are most challenging in our region’s intense summer heat. These zones offer the best opportunities for conservation through alternative landscaping.

Worth the Investment
The initial investment in turf reduction typically pays for itself within two or three years through reduced water bills, decreased fertilizer and pesticide costs, and lower maintenance requirements.

Native plants and non-native xeric alternatives will require less frequent watering, no fertilization, and minimal pest management once established. Many homeowners find that reduced turf areas become more interesting and biodiverse than traditional lawns, attracting beneficial insects, birds, and other wildlife. This ecological enhancement adds value to your property while contributing to local environmental health

Take the First Step

Begin by assessing your current lawn’s water usage and identifying areas that could benefit from alternative landscaping better suited to the Okanagan’s climate.

Contact your local water utility,  as many municipalities offer rebates or incentives for xeriscaping, turf reduction and Okanagan lawn alternative projects. The Regional District of Central Okanagan, City of Kelowna, and other local governments often provide resources and financial support for water-wise landscaping initiatives.

A Landscape That Gives Back

Reducing turf grass areas represents a practical and effective way to conserve water while creating more sustainable, diverse, and interesting landscapes that benefit both homeowners and the broader environment.

Be sure to check out the Lawn Alternatives Garden in the UnH2O Demonstration Garden on Gordon Drive in Kelowna

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.