PLANT OF THE MONTH- August

by Sigrie Kendrick

Limonium latifolium, Sea Lavender

A Cloud of Colour for the Dry Garden

If you’re looking to add texture without adding to your water bill, Limonium latifolium deserves a spot on your shortlist. Commonly known as sea lavender or broad-leaved statice, this perennial in the Plumbaginaceae family hails originally from the coasts of southeastern Europe. Surprisingly, its heat and drought tolerance make it a natural fit for the hot, dry summers of the Okanagan.

The plant forms a low, leathery rosette of broad, dark-green leaves close to the ground, from which wiry, branching flower stems rise in mid-to-late summer. These stems erupt into hundreds of tiny lavender-blue blooms, creating an airy, cloud-like haze that seems to float above the foliage. It’s this misty texture rather than any single showy flower that makes sea lavender so valuable in a xeric border, as it softens the sharper forms of companion plants such as Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) or ornamental grasses without competing for water.

Leonora Enking | Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Our Plant Database features more than 500 plants tested and ideally suited for the unique challenges of gardening in the Okanagan’s extreme climate, including the plants in this article.

PLANT OF THE MONTH- June

by Sigrie Kendrick

Papaver orientale, Oriental Poppy

Few plants announce the arrival of early summer quite like Papaver orientale, the Oriental poppy. With blooms that can reach the size of a dinner plate, this bold perennial has captivated gardeners for centuries and is an excellent fit for the Okanagan’s hot, dry summers.

Native to the meadows and hillsides of southwestern Asia, Oriental poppies are built for drought. They emerge in spring, producing deeply lobed, bristly grey-green foliage before sending up stiff stems topped with enormous, papery blooms. The flowers typically appear in late May through June in the Okanagan in colours ranging from fiery scarlet and orange to softer shades of salmon, pink, and white, usually with a dramatic dark blotch at the base of each petal. Although not particularly long-blooming, they are irresistible when in flower.

After flowering, the foliage dies back completely by midsummer, a quirk that catches some gardeners off guard. This summer dormancy is actually an advantage in xeriscape design as the plant requires virtually no water during its period of dormancy. Plan for this gap by surrounding Papaver orientale with late-season bloomers like Agastache cultivars (Hyssop), Salvia yangii (Russian sage), or ornamental grasses, which will fill in as the poppy vanishes.

Oriental poppies thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, the sandier and leaner, the better. They dislike heavy clay and resent overwatering, making them a natural choice for our semi-arid Okanagan conditions. Once established, Papaver orientale are long-lived and reliably self-sufficient, returning larger and more floriferous each year.

Plant bare-root divisions in late summer or early fall, when the plant is dormant. Consider the site carefully as Oriental poppies develop a deep tap root, which allows them to access moisture deep within the soil. The downside of this deep tap root means they are all but impossible to transplant. Plant it right, leave it alone, and prepare to be dazzled year after year.

An added bonus of Papaver orientale is that its fuzzy, prickly foliage is seldom browsed by visiting deer.

Our Plant Database features more than 500 plants tested and ideally suited for the unique challenges of gardening in the Okanagan’s extreme climate, including the plants in this article.

PLANT OF THE MONTH- MAY

by Sigrie Kendrick

Bergenia cordifolia, heartleaf Bergenia

Bergenia cordifolia, commonly known as pigsqueak or heartleaf Bergenia, is a herbaceous perennial native to Russia, grown primarily as a groundcover. Practically indestructible once established, it is a foundation plant with enduring appeal.

This perennial is hardy in zones 3-8 and is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and light conditions. Reaching a height of 1 to 1 1/2 ft with an equal spread, this perennial features rosettes of large, leathery leaves, which are useful in flower arrangements.

Bergenia cordifolia blooms in April to May with dense panicles of small dark pink flowers held above the foliage by stout 16-inch stalks.

Bergenia cordifolia is not typically bothered by deer, insects or disease.

The common name of pigsqueak comes from the noise produced by rubbing the leaf between thumb and forefinger.

How does Bergenia cordifolia resist drought?

Growing tips–

Bergenia cordifolia works wonderfully for:

• shaded border fronts or rock gardens
• ground cover for woodland or shade gardens
• edging for paths and walkways
• a much-needed pop of early bloom colour
• an early nectar source for pollinators

Plant Bergenia cordifolia in part to full shade with moist, well-drained soil. It will tolerate dry shade once established and adapts well to a range of soil types.

To get the most out of Bergenia cordifolia in your garden, a protective layer of mulch is highly recommended to retain shallow moisture.

Trim back spent flowers after blooming, and remove damaged foliage in early spring to make way for fresh growth. To maintain density and vigour, divide every few years in the spring.

Suitable for use as a fresh cut flower. 

Our Plant Database features more than 500 plants tested and ideally suited for the unique challenges of gardening in the Okanagan’s extreme climate, including the plants in this article.

PLANT OF THE MONTH- APRIL

by Sigrie Kendrick

Pulsatilla vulgaris, the European Pasque flower

Few spring-blooming perennials combine delicate beauty with rugged resilience quite like Pulsatilla vulgaris, the European Pasque flower.

Named for its bloom time around Easter (Pâques in French), this silky-petalled gem is equally at home in a rock garden or a sun-baked hillside and is virtually maintenance-free.

Pasque flower is cold-hardy in zones 4-8, making it an excellent choice for even the higher elevations in our Okanagan valley.

Native to the dry chalk grasslands and limestone meadows of central and northern Europe, Pulsatilla vulgaris has evolved over millennia in some of the continent’s most unforgiving soils.

Poor, thin, and freely draining ground is exactly what it prefers. Plant it in rich, moisture-retentive soil, and it will quietly sulk or simply disappear.

Give it the lean, gritty conditions it knows, and Pulsatilla vulgaris will reward you with decades of enjoyment.

How does Pulsatilla vulgaris resist drought?

The Pasque flower’s drought resilience is structural, not incidental. Its deeply tapering taproot drives far down into rocky substrate, accessing moisture reserves long after the surface soil has dried.

The finely divided, feathery foliage is covered in soft silver hairs, a classic xerophytic adaptation that reflects intense sunlight and reduces water loss through the leaf surface.

Even the ornamental silky-tailed seed heads that follow the blooms serve a purpose by allowing the plant to complete its reproduction cycle quickly, before summer heat fully arrives.

Growing tips–

Once established, which typically takes a full growing season, Pulsatilla vulgaris requires essentially no supplemental irrigation in climates such as the Okanagan with its modest spring rainfall.

It is highly suited to xeriscaping plantings, gravel gardens, and low-maintenance perennial borders where water conservation is a priority.

Pulsatilla vulgaris prefers to be sited in a full-sun location with excellent drainage, but will tolerate part-sun.

Avoid transplanting Pulsatilla once established, as the taproot, which makes this such a successful xeric plant, resents disturbance.

Cultivars of this perennial range from the classic violet-purple through white, red, and soft pink.

Pasque flower is one of the earliest blooming spring perennials and, as such, offers vital support for pollinators emerging from the long winter.

Our Plant Database features more than 500 plants tested and ideally suited for the unique challenges of gardening in the Okanagan’s extreme climate, including the plants in this article.

PLANT OF THE MONTH- March

by Sigrie Kendrick

Lenten or Christmas Rose, or Hellebore

Helleborus orientalis, commonly known as the Lenten or Christmas Rose, or simply Hellebore, is an excellent choice for Okanagan gardens.

Native to Greece, Turkey, and the Caucasus region, this elegant perennial has been favored by gardeners for centuries for its remarkable resilience and quiet, understated beauty.

Despite its common name, the Lenten Rose is not a true rose but a member of the buttercup family, Ranunculaceae. It produces nodding, cup-shaped flowers in a stunning range of colours from pure white and soft cream to deep plum, burgundy, and near-black.

Many cultivars feature attractive spotting, veining, or picotee edges, adding further visual interest. Helleborus orientalis blooms appear from late winter through early spring, often pushing up through frost and snow, earning the plant a reputation as a harbinger for the warmer days ahead.

The leathery, dark green foliage is evergreen in many climates, providing year-round structure and ground cover. Leaves are deeply divided into palmate segments, giving the plant a bold, architectural quality even when not in bloom.

Hellebore thrive in a woodland garden

Helleborus orientalis thrives in partial to full shade, making it an invaluable choice for woodland gardens and shade borders. It prefers well-drained, humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH. Once established, it is remarkably drought-tolerant and long-lived, with individual plants surviving for decades with minimal care.

Few plants offer so much for so little effort. The Lenten Rose naturalises freely, self-seeding to gradually form impressive clumps. It is also deer-resistant, a significant advantage in many Okanagan gardens.

However, gardeners should note that all parts of the plant are toxic if ingested, so care should be taken in gardens frequented by children or pets. Some people may even experience mild skin irritation after touching Hellebore.

With its late-winter blooms and easy-going nature, Helleborus orientalis remains an essential plant for any shade garden.

Our Plant Database features more than 500 plants tested and ideally suited for the unique challenges of gardening in the Okanagan’s extreme climate, including the plants in this article.

PLANT OF THE MONTH- JANUARY

by Sigrie Kendrick

Wild pansy, heartsease, or Johnny-jump-up

Although not typically considered a xeriscape plant, these diminutive beauties, sited on my patio, receive very little supplemental irrigation and are actually quite drought-tolerant. They have been blooming since September and, with our recent mild weather, continue to do so, brightening the gloomy winter days, making them worthy to feature as Plant of the Month.

Viola tricolour, commonly known as the wild pansy, heartsease, or Johnny-jump-up, is a delightful European wildflower that has captured hearts for centuries. This small but mighty plant, belonging to the violet family Violaceae, displays cheerful blooms in combinations of colours, hence its scientific name “tricolour,” meaning three colors. Blooming in shades of blue, purple, orange, yellow, burgundy, white, and near-black, with many multicoloured varieties, these are tough, fast-growing, self-seeders.

Native to Europe and temperate regions of Asia, this hardy annual or short-lived perennial thrives in meadows, wastelands, and cultivated fields. The plant typically grows 6 to 8 inches tall, with delicate flowers measuring about half an inch across. Each bloom features distinctive face-like markings, with dark lines radiating from the center.

Viola tricolour – folklore and symbolism

Throughout history, Viola tricolour has been steeped in folklore and symbolism. Medieval Europeans called it heartsease because of its supposed ability to mend broken hearts and ease emotional pain. In the Victorian language of flowers, it represented loving thoughts and remembrance. Beyond its ornamental appeal, the wild pansy has practical uses. Herbalists have traditionally employed it to treat skin conditions, respiratory ailments, and inflammation. The flowers are edible and make attractive garnishes for salads and desserts, offering a mild, slightly minty flavor.

Viola tricolour is also the ancestor of the modern garden pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), developed through extensive breeding in the 19th century. While cultivated pansies now boast larger blooms in countless color combinations, many gardeners still cherish the wild pansy’s modest charm and natural grace.

This resilient little flower continues to brighten gardens and wild spaces, reminding us that beauty often comes in small, unpretentious packages. Viola tricolour are typically more heat and drought-tolerant than pansies and worth including in any garden.

Our Plant Database features more than 500 plants tested and ideally suited for the unique challenges of gardening in the Okanagan’s extreme climate, including the plants in this article.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

Living with Deer in the Okanagan

Living in the beautiful Okanagan Valley comes with many perks, but for gardeners, there is one persistent challenge that stands out: marauding deer.

While deer may be lovely to observe from a distance, they can quickly transform a carefully-cultivated garden into their personal buffet. Understanding deer-resistant plants, particularly those suited to our semi-arid climate, can help you create a thriving landscape that both you and the local wildlife can appreciate—each in your own ways.

Deer are opportunistic feeders, but with surprisingly-discerning palates. They typically avoid plants with certain characteristics that make them either unpalatable or difficult to consume.

The most effective deer-resistant plants share common traits: strong fragrances, fuzzy or textured foliage, bitter or toxic compounds, thorny structures, or tough, leathery leaves.

Plants with high essential oil content, such as herbs and aromatics, are particularly unappealing to deer, as their sensitive noses find these scents overwhelming.

It’s important to emphasize that no plant is completely deer-proof. When food sources are scarce, particularly during harsh winters or drought conditions, deer will eat almost anything, a behavior that was especially obvious in West Kelowna gardens since the 2023 McDougall Creek Fire.

I have a client in Casa Loma who has gardened at her property for decades and accepted that the deer would munch on her Bergenia cordifolia flowers, but more recently, both flowers and foliage are missing.

Deer in an urban garden

Deer-Resistant Plants for a Semi-Arid Climate

The Okanagan’s semi-arid climate, characterized by hot, dry summers and relatively mild winters, makes it ideal for xeric plants, those adapted to dry conditions. These water-wise plants not only conserve our precious water resources but often possess natural deer-resistant qualities.

Many xeric plants have evolved tough, waxy, fuzzy or aromatic foliage as adaptations to conserve moisture—characteristics that coincidentally make them less appealing to browsing animals.

Check out the plant database on this website for examples of some plants we’ve found that normally deter deer.

Perennials: Okanagan deer-resistant, xeric perennials include Achillea cultivars (Yarrow), with its ferny foliage and flat-topped flowers in various colours, and Nepeta (Catmint), which produces spikes of blue flowers and aromatic foliage that deer find objectionable.

Lavender stands out as perhaps the perfect Okanagan deer-resistant plant. Its intense fragrance, drought tolerance, and beautiful purple flowers make it both functional and ornamental.

Similarly, Perovskia atriplifolia (Russian sage) offers aromatic silvery foliage and tall spikes of blue flowers while requiring minimal water once established. Both plants thrive in our alkaline soils and intense summer sun.

Ornamental grasses provide excellent deer resistance while adding movement and texture to the landscape. Helictotrichon sempervirens (Blue Oat Grass), Schizachyrium scoparium (Little Bluestem), and Pennisetum alopecuroides (Fountain Grass) all perform well in our climate, requiring little supplemental irrigation after their first year. Their thin, sharp-edged leaves are simply not appealing to deer.

Shrubs: consider Mahonia species, formally Berberis (Barberry) species, which combine drought tolerance with thorny branches that deer actively avoid.

Potentilla fruticosa (Shrubby Cinquefoil) offers bright flowers throughout the summer in shades of yellow, orange, pink, and white while requiring minimal care. Appreciated more for its foliage than its flowers, Sambucus racemosa “Lemony Lace” (Elderberry) offers yellow-green lace-like foliage with highly dissected leaves and, as of yet, has not been browsed by deer in our West Kelowna demonstration garden.

Annuals: Tagetes tenuifolia (Signet Marigolds), Zinnia elegans (Zinnias), and Antirrhinum majus (Snapdragon) provide bright blooms while being generally deer-resistant, though they’ll need a little regular watering in our dry climate.

Lavender

Designing a Water-Wise Garden with Deer-Resistant Plants

Our Plant Database features more than 500 plants tested and ideally suited for the unique challenges of gardening in the Okanagan’s extreme climate. Deer-resistant plants are included.

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.

GARDENING WITH NATURE

Article by Sigrie Kendrick

It all starts with the seed

Whether you buy blooming plants and tall trees for your landscaping or plant seedlings and seeds—it all really begins with the collection of seeds from mature plants.

We all have the means to do that right in our own back yards. But, like so many things, it’s actually a bit more complicated than that. Working with Okanagan Xeriscape Association members and volunteers in the Xeriscape Demonstration Garden, we spent a couple of hours collecting seeds from the garden’s perennials and annuals. It’s a fun and inexpensive way to ensure the plants that thrived in their given environment this year will be around for future seasons.

As we were collecting the seed heads and labeling the storage bags, one of the volunteers peppered me with questions– How do you know when the seeds are ready to harvest? What conditions do you need to store them, and in what?

Quite a heated discussion ensued among everyone present, as, with so many gardening tasks, there is often more than one answer.

When and How to save your seeds

Annual and perennial seeds are ready to harvest when the flowers have finished blooming and the flower petals have turned brown or fallen off.

Collect the ripe seeds from the flower heads and lay them on wax paper away from sunlight to dry for a week or so. You can use a variety of storage vessels, plastic bags, wax, or paper envelopes. My personal favourite are the compartmentalized plastic containers my mechanic uses to store nuts and bolts and such.

Proper storage of your seeds will go a long way to keeping them viable for longer. Ideally, seeds prefer a dark, dry, cool environment between 35 F (1.6 C) and 40 F (4.4 C) with a humidity as low as possible.

While your refrigerator can supply the cool and dark environment, the high humidity inside is not ideal. If you do choose to use your fridge for seed storage, make sure to use airtight containers such as mason jars.

Wherever or however you choose to store your seeds make sure to label them properly, specifying the date and the plant from which the seed was collected. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve thought I would remember which seeds were which, only to scratch my head in the spring when I opened each compartment.

Many seeds benefit from a chemical change which mimics what they experience in their natural environment, such as freezing winter weather, burning temperatures or scarring or cutting from being exposed in the outdoors, or gnawed by an animal.

Scarification is the process of opening the seed coat and can be done mechanically, chemically or thermally in order to allow water inside the seed coat. Typically, this method is used on seeds with an extremely thick outer layer and is achieved unnaturally by scratching, filing, breaking, puncturing or burning the seed coat.

Stratification uses temperature to break the dormancy of the seed and it can be achieved by subjecting the seeds to periods of cold, either dry or wet cold. It is often achieved by storing your seeds in either the refrigerator or an outbuilding for several months.

One of the seed varieties that I’m most excited about is the Echinacea purpurea “Cheyenne Spirit” seeds, which we collected from the West Kelowna Xeriscape Spirit Square Garden. Many of the fancy new Echinacea cultivars have to be cultivated by vegetative means, and as such are expensive. Echinacea “Cheyenne Spirit” can be easily cultivated from seed and comes in a dazzling array of colours including red, purple, pink, orange, yellow and cream.

This xeriscape perennial has performed very well in the garden even during the challenges of severe water restrictions imposed during the summer season. I look forward to start propagating more of these tough beauties ready for purchase at our annual spring plant sale.

Check our Plant Database for more information on the plants mentioned above.

Sigrie Kendrick is a master gardener and executive-director of the non-profit Okanagan Xeriscape Association.

A Pollinator-Friendly Garden

Article by Pat Zander

Pollinator Attraction

My husband and I have always tried to attract birds to our garden. That meant planting shrubs
and perennials that would be sources of food and shelter, and minimizing the use of pesticides
that might harm.

Then we got a hive of honey bees and found that many of the same principles apply. In
particular, bees need a good and consistent source of pollen and nectar-rich flowers during the
warm season. And being very careful with pesticides is even more critical. As they feed, they
are moving pollen around and fertilizing the flowers. The majority of our food crops need these
busy little critters to accomplish this for them before they can produce seeds or fruit.

At one time, I thought there was nothing more entertaining in the garden than watching a
couple of robins bathe in the fountain. However, watching a bee wiggle her way into a tubular
flower and then wiggle back out, covered with pollen, is right up there too. It is a huge bonus
that I am now more aware of all the other pollinators that come our way. With awareness
comes appreciation. I’ve seen three different species of bumblebees “working” the same
patch of flowers, a tiny bee the size of an ant navigating a Hydrangea bloom, and the delicate
scalloping leafcutter bees make on a rose leaf.

Some Familiar Easy to Grow Favourites

Early Spring:
Crocus | Glory of the Snow | Pasque Flowers |  Snowdrops |  Tulips | Hazelnut | Pussywillows

Late Spring:
Allium |  Lilac | Saskatoons | Elderberry | Blossoming Berries |  Blossoming Fruit Trees and Shrubs | Oregon grape

Summer:
Beebalm |  Catmint |  Coneflower |  Dill | Fennel | Globe Thistle | Hyssop |  Jupiter’s Beard | 
Lavender |  Lambs Ears | Mint | Russian Sage | Salvia; | Snapdragons |  Veronica |  Yarrow | Butterfly Bush | Ninebark | Rose of Sharon

Late Summer into Fall:
Autumn Joy Sedum | Sunflowers |  Bluebeard (Caryopteris) | Russian Sage

I have mentioned only the plants in our garden which I know to be pollinator favourites. There
are hundreds more. A quick search on the internet will provide lists of appropriate choices;
borderfreebees.com is a good one. Also, do check out the plant list and images on OXA’s Pollinator Garden in the UnH2O Demonstration Garden on this site. 

It is also worth noting that native plants are the most appropriate for feeding native insect
species. Bonus that they are really easy on the water.

Living in the Okanagan where fruit growing is an important industry, gives us even more reason
to encourage healthy populations of pollinators.

Oh, and if you happen to have a few dandelions in your lawn, you are serving bee candy. Now
there’s an excuse to avoid hours on your knees digging them out.